From time to time, we like to return to a wine we've reviewed favorably to see how it's holding up and whether the latest vintage pleases us as much as the earlier one. The 2011 Bouchard Aîné & Fils Pouilly Fuissé drinks just as fetchingly as the 2009, which we sampled in 2012. We paid about $17 at a big-box wine store.
This slightly reticent white is 100 percent chardonnay vinified in stainless steel and aged briefly in oak. It hails from France's Mâconnais villages appellation.
It is shy at first, its nose offering mild pear and subtle papaya plus a subtle mineral note and a little floral flutter. Both pear and papaya are very much to the fore on the tongue, abetted by a flirty hint of butterscotch. The finish is long and very crisp, flint giving way to a burst of lime at the finale. Overall, this is a very tropical approach for a French wine.
The winemaker suggests pairing it with frogs legs or sweetbreads, among other things, but if those items are not on your menu then we suggest enjoying it with chicken braised in olives, capers, onion and green bell pepper or with a pork belly banh mi sandwich.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.