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Wine of the Week: 2013 Brancott Estate 'Flight Song' Sauvignon Blanc

We're not in the business of counting calories here at Wine of the Week, but this week's selection comes with a bonus for those who are. Because the grapes used in the 2013 Brancott Estate "Flight Song" Sauvignon Blanc (about $14 at wine-savvy markets) were harvested early in the season, sugar levels in the fruit were lower than in those harvested later — resulting, according to the wine's label, in a quaff with 20 percent fewer calories. Now that's trend-conscious winemaking.

We didn't miss the calories one bit. Given that Brancott was a pioneer planter of sauv blanc in Marlborough, New Zealand, we wouldn't have expected them to offer us anything but a lively and satisfying wine.

Pink grapefruit is the headline for this zingy white. It captured our fancy at first whiff and then broke hugely on the tongue, with smidges of nectarine, pineapple and key lime nibbling around the edges. The finish is both short and as crisp as a freshly printed C note.

This wine will be a very fine companion at poolside or on the terrace at sundown. It also will be beautiful with seafood, especially oysters and other shellfish and with grilled mahi or grouper. If fish is not your thing, try it with straight-ahead roast pork.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.

Wine of the Week: 2013 Brancott Estate 'Flight Song' Sauvignon Blanc 03/17/14 [Last modified: Monday, March 17, 2014 5:53pm]
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