El Perro Verde, a name that translates as the Green Dog, is a beautifully complex and aromatic white wine from Spain's Rueda region on the Iberian Peninsula. It is blended primarily from verdejo grapes. We picked up the 2013 at a local wine-savvy market for about $15 and have added it to our list of wines that really should cost more. (Don't tell the importers.)
In the bottle, this wine is a lovely pale yellow with a light green tint. On the nose, it proffers a gorgeous blend of mild herbs, freshly clipped grass and a substrate of apricot. It's on the tongue, though, that its real beauty shines through in all its multilayered glory. El Perro Verde is lush but light, glowing with lovely subtle flavors of herbs, understated white meadow flowers, light apricot and honeydew, all pushed over the top by the unmistakable and mellow savor of cream soda. All the foregoing flavors persist straight through from first sip to the finale of a long, clean, crisp finish. Wow! For complexity and depth, we'll put this white up against any number of excellent midrange reds.
Drink it well chilled on its own or pair it with shrimp scampi, chicken piccata or a cool beet and apple salad with goat cheese.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.