We've recommended lots and lots of dry, fruit-forward whites to pair with fish and shellfish over the years, but this week's wine, a delightful 2011 white Bordeaux from France's Chateau Julian (about $13 at wine-savvy markets), is one we'd pair with pork roast, roast chicken and other lightly sauced or naked white meats, as well as with mellow soft cheeses like Brie.
It opens with a light floral bouquet accented with an even lighter whiff of citrus tang. At first sip that wonderful Bordeaux minerality announces itself. Then the fruit kicks in: sunny ripe pear with a harmonizing smidge of peach. There is a bit of white pepper for spice and a nicely understated lemony edge. The wine finishes long and dry, flint and fruit playing seductively over the taste buds long after that first sip is history.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel. For an index and archive of reviews, go to pictograph.com.