Tuna is one of those pantry staples that has so much versatility it's almost foolish not to have a supply on hand. We use it in sandwiches, atop salads and in our hurricane kits, thanks to the long shelf life of tuna cans or pouches. Many tuna manufacturers also produce seasoned tunas blended with everything from lemon pepper to hickory smoked flavors, designed to go from the shelf to the lunch box with no fuss. For our sampling, we tasted eight brands of white or albacore tuna packed simply in water.
Kathy Saunders, Times correspondent