Real deal tacos

• A good taco is a culinary adventure. And at about $2, it's a bargain. At Tampa Bay taquerias, it can be as simple as grilled beef stuffed into a corn tortilla and topped with chopped onion and cilantro. Or maybe something as subtly complex as pork carnitas, the marinated meat redolent of garlic, oregano and pineapple. And then there are ingredients exotic to most American palates: lengua (beef tongue), cabesa (steer head), tripe (sliced beef stomach), chicharrón (fried pork skin). The number of good small taquerias has grown considerably around Tampa Bay in recent years. They are generally no-frills, humble, family-run places. Think fluorescent lights and Formica counter tops. You'll likely find more Mexican soda than Mexican beer. And you might encounter a language barrier, though usually you will find someone eager to help. But the food is generally fresh, the salsa house-made and the tortillas formed by hand from a mound of masa.

  • Taco Bus (Tampa)

    

    Originally Taconazzo, Taco Bus' new owner Rene Valenzuela embraced the nickname, kept the kitchen bus, expanded the menu (smoked pork marinated in anchiote and bitter orange is a highlight) and went 24/7. The prices are the highest on our list ($2.69), but the vibe is still roadside taco stand. Love the menu diversity: Fried pork skin and tofu tacos. Hate the packaged tortillas: No room for fresh?

    913 E Hillsborough Ave., Tampa, 33604

  • Cielito Lindo Taqueria

    A chowhound.com poster declared these the best lengua tacos around and they just might be. Tender and tangy, it will make you forget that you're eating beef tongue. If that's not possible, try the al pastor (pork) or the barbacoa. All prepared in a tiny storefront on fresh corn tortillas and topped simply with chopped onion and cilantro. Prices are great ($2) and half price on Mondays.

    672 E Tarpon Ave., Tarpon Springs, 34689

  • Asadas Compadres

    A small storefront in a strip shopping center across the street from the original Hooters, Compadres takes a straight-forward approach to tacos - a fresh, homemade tortilla, filled with flavorful ingredients (asada, pastor, barbacoa, lengua, tripe, among others), topped with cilantro and onion. Not much for entertainment, but the food is the real thing. Its version of cabeza was particularly authentic, though a little greasy.

    2801 Gulf to Bay Blvd., Clearwater, 33759

  • Taqueria Monterrey

    Taco Bus owner Rene Valenzuela adds a third restaurant to his growing taqueria kingdom. And with the addition of freshly made tortillas (flour or corn), a salsa bar and a few menu add-ons, this USF quickstop is winning over bus loyalists. The prices are low ($2.25) and the ingredients fresh (and they are not above serving lengua). The al pastor and housemade chorizo sausage are highlights.

    2320 E Fletcher Ave., Tampa, 33612

  • Acapulco Grocery and Taqueria

    The taqueria is in the back of this tiny grocery, an L-shaped counter with a grill and a menu on a white board and a bowl of masa ready to be formed into fresh tortillas. The language barrier is broken by the friendly cashier, who guides you through the day's offerings (all tacos $2 or less). But even she won't go for  the buche. Face it, pig's throat is an acquired taste. Makes for a surprisingly tender and tasty taco, though.

    1001 N MacDill Ave., Tampa, 33607

  • La Cabana del Tio

    Fresh tortillas are the draw; La Cabana del Tio may be the only restaurant in the Tampa Bay area making fresh corn tortillas every day. But you can taste the difference with the first bite. A fresh corn tortilla has a richer, chewier texture. These are warm and charred brown, with the slightly misshapen look of something handmade. They form the perfect vehicle for some of the best tacos around.

    1709 Drew St., Clearwater, 33755