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Laura Reiley, Times Food Critic

Laura Reiley

Laura Reiley is the Tampa Bay Times' restaurant critic and a former critic for the San Francisco Chronicle and the Baltimore Sun. She is the author of four books in the Moon Handbook series: Florida Gulf Coast; Walt Disney World and Orlando; Tampa and St. Petersburg; and the Paradise Coast. She has cooked professionally and is a graduate of the California Culinary Academy.

Phone: (727) 892-2293

Email: lreiley@tampabay.com

Twitter: @LReiley

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  1. Top TV chefs discuss how to approach vegetarian, vegan cooking

    Cooking

    Robert Irvine

    Host of Food Network's Dinner: Impossible, Worst Cooks in America, Restaurant: Impossible and Restaurant Express

    "People misunderstand vegetarianism and veganism. One may be completely different from another. If you're a vegan I want to talk to you about what you like and what you don't like. I love to cook with beans. Chickpeas are one of my favorites, and I don't mean hummus, either. I don't really have go-to things, but I use a lot of fresh herbs and vinegars and acids to alter the flavor of things. Harissa is another thing I (use). I'm a big believer in taking what's natural and enhancing it to bring out the flavors, but it takes time. Let's face it, we're a nation of instant gratification. We just want to get it done."...

    Carla Hall, Top Chef finalist, Chew co-host and cookbook author
  2. Reviews of vegan restaurants Taste of Eden, Loving Hut, Vida de Cafe

    Food & Dining

    ST. PETERSBURG

    Remember when veganism was a punch line for joke-telling carnivores? These days it is estimated that 33 percent of the population eats mostly vegetables, 5 percent is strictly vegetarian and 2.5 percent is vegan. Still a fairly small percentage, but folks who eschew all animal products are growing in clout, with lots of celeb vegans helping to raise awareness (yes, Gwyneth Paltrow and Alicia Silverstone, but also Al Gore and Bill Clinton). Rationales for taking the plunge vary from animal rights issues to environmental concerns to health choices, so it should come as no surprise that the style and focus of vegan restaurants varies dramatically....

    Porter Ulven, right, enjoys a meal with her sister, Tori Gudbranson, at Loving Hut in Tampa.
  3. Fitlife Foods takes healthy eating to new heights

    Retail

    It may be dwarfed by the truly amazonian Amazon fulfillment center across the street, but Fitlife Foods' expanded culinary center in a brand-new 100,000-square-foot facility in Plant City represents a new phase in CEO David Osterweil's plan to get Tampa Bay eating right. What is now the leading Southeastern independent retailer of healthy, fresh-prepared meals has experienced meteoric growth since its debut in 2011....

    David Osterweil, a former Carrabba’s executive and marathon runner, is owner and founder of Fitlife Foods.
  4. Tampa-style ramen gets a celebrity preview in New York City

    Food & Dining

    NEW YORK — Gwyneth Paltrow likes Tampa-style ramen.

    Thursday evening, with paparazzi set up across the street, Paltrow and friends slurped their way through the three offerings at New York City's red-hot Ramen Lab. It was an unusual opportunity for an incoming Tampa restaurant to get some major exposure on a big-city stage.

    Run by Sun Noodle as a test-kitchen restaurant, Ramen Lab this month embarked on a guest chef program. Its inaugural visitor was restaurateur Noel Cruz, who will open Tampa's first ramen house, called Ichicoro, in Seminole Heights at the end of June. It will have an open concept, and about 50 seats....

    From left, Masa Takaku, Noel Cruz and Chakira Hiratsu are the Ichicoro team coming to 5229 N Florida Ave. next month.
  5. Local whiz's FusionPrep app helps restaurant kitchens nationwide

    Food & Dining

    Chon Nguyen, 32, was a veteran entrepreneur back in high school, fixing folks' printers and connecting peers' PlayStations. After graduation he founded three Tampa-based companies: Digital Aspire, AVIT and 212 Digital, the last of which developed an app called Fusionprep that now powers approximately 300 professional kitchens nationwide. Fusionprep is an iPad-based kitchen tool that helps restaurants go paperless and maintain consistency, with clients like PDQ, World of Beer, Tijuana Flats, Carmel Kitchen and Wine Bar, Lee Roy Selmon's, Rooster & the Till and Besito. We caught up with Nguyen, who grew up in Trinity and New Port Richey, to find out how Tampa Bay diners may benefit from his innovations....

    Chon Nguyen’s 212 Digital developed the app that’s used in about 300 professional kitchens nationwide.
  6. Review: Food quality high, prices low at Clearwater's Volcano Japanese Cuisine

    Food & Dining

    CLEARWATER

    Ordinarily, a volcano roll is true to its name, more eruption than sushi, packed with too many ingredients and squiggled and swirled with glops of sauces. It's the acme of the more-is-more aesthetic in which American sushi bars often specialize. So when I swung by on a reader's recommendation to check out Volcano Japanese Cuisine, I kept expectations modest.

    Strip mall location, big square dining room still decorated with Greek Isles photos from a past restaurant: expectations still in check. But Vincent Wang's 2-month-old restaurant won me over fairly swiftly. It has a broad menu with sushi front and center, presentations quite lovely and prices modest. An array of hibachi dinners, udon dishes, teriyaki options and tempura items round out the offerings, with bubble teas, frozen mochi treats and fried ice cream keeping things interesting all the way to meal's end....

    The Sashimi Deluxe at Volcano Japanese Cuisine in Clearwater is presented artfully. It features tuna, salmon, yellowtail, red snapper, white tuna, octopus and mackerel.
  7. Souzou, an upscale Asian fusion concept, will join foodie scene in St. Petersburg in June

    Food & Dining

    ST. PETERSBURG — Despite a densely populated restaurant landscape, downtown St. Petersburg in recent years played second fiddle to South Tampa, which welcomed a more notable array of high-end "destination restaurants."

    The tide may be turning, says Mike Harting, owner of St. Petersburg's 3 Daughters Brewing and co-owner of Souzou, which will tentatively debut June 22 at 435 Fifth Ave. N....

    Construction continues Thursday on Souzou, an Asian fusion restaurant, at 435 Fifth Ave. N in St. Petersburg. The 180-seat restaurant is scheduled to open June 22.
  8. Yummy House owner to open a fast-casual noodle concept

    Food & Dining

    John Zhao, 35, says he's been in the restaurant business for 24 years. Not legally he hasn't, but he started working at a tender age in restaurant kitchens in Belize, going on to debut Yummy House on Waters Avenue in Tampa in 2008 at the age of 28. Despite no reservations, no booze and a decidedly bare-bones interior, it was a nearly instant hit, one of the area's first true Hong Kong-style restaurants....

    John Zhao, left, with executive chef Tommy Tang, will open a noodle house. 
  9. McDonald's adds kale to menu, pushing kale over the shark

    Blog

    The single best example of "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em" ever: McDonald's will start serving kale. Just months ago the world's largest restaurant was mocking the world's most annoying vegetable in television ads. Now? Nine restaurants in Southern California are testing McDonald's new breakfast bowls (mmm, eggs with kale) and Canadian McDonald's are experimenting with three kale-based salads (Caesar, Greek and harvest garden)....

    Mmm. Kale.
  10. Beards are big — and in restaurants, so are beard hairnets

    Food & Dining

    It's like kudzu, a kind of facial hair mission creep. Big beards are booming.

    And in the restaurant world, so, too, are beard snoods.

    The use of beard hairnets has skyrocketed in the past year as "statement beards" have grown in number and sheer audacity. A hipster phenomenon that gained purchase in places like Brooklyn, big beards have made their way onto male models, George Clooney and T-shirts emblazoned with "Fear the Beard." They've made it to the deli case at Publix, the seafood counter at Whole Foods and the salad station at your local pizzeria — and beard snoods have followed. ...

      Jason Schwartzwalder has sported his beard in kitchens of restaurants including St. Petersburg's Lucky Dill, Burrito Boarder and Crowley's.
  11. Restaurant review: Chief's Creole Cafe full of homey food, hospitality

    Food & Dining

    ST. PETERSBURG

    Good manners can be taught. But graciousness? That stuff is tucked somewhere along long strings of DNA nucleotides. Elihu and Carolyn Brayboy drip with it. Visit their 6-month-old Chief's Creole Cafe and they greet you warmly, slide into easy conversation, make you feel special and expertly attend to your needs. It's like being in someone's home for dinner, someone adept at keeping track of a thousand pesky details while maintaining a beatific calm....

    ,You can start your meal off with Creole crawfish fritters and end it with pineapple upside-down cake.
  12. Does Tampa Bay have what it takes to be a food destination?

    Florida

    ST. PETE BEACH — Dozens of heavy hitters from Tampa Bay's restaurant industry got together Thursday and agreed on one thing: The area is a grape that's about to burst.

    While beaches and theme parks have been the heart of Tampa Bay's tourist economy, the food scene here is at a pivotal moment. That's a good thing according to Erik Wolf, executive director of the World Food Travel Association. Speaking at the Tampa Bay Beaches Chamber of Commerce 2015 tourism lunch, and then at a smaller roundtable discussion with a group of tourism and restaurant industry people, his focus was food tourism....

    Frank Chivas sees collaboration among chambers of commerce and restaurateurs as key to nurturing a food tourism scene.
  13. Chefs, students join to make dinner for Ryan Wells Foundation

    Food & Dining

    CLEARWATER BEACH — This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Ryan Wells Foundation's Evening with the Chefs. In a decade the foundation has awarded 75 high school students $514,000 in scholarship money and donated $283,000 to the culinary programs of Dixie Hollins High, Northeast High, Osceola High, Pinellas Technical College and Tarpon Springs High.

    It's named for Ryan Michael Wells, a Palm Harbor Eagle Scout who died at age 18 after losing control of his car on Interstate 75. He was returning from an elite summer cooking institute in North Miami, with the dream of becoming a chef. Through these annual scholarships, his family has enabled other culinary students to pursue that same dream. And on May 16 at the Sheraton Sand Key, Tampa Bay diners can get in on it, watching 11 notable local chefs joining area culinary students in a multi-course meal....

    A fundraiser May 16 at the Sheraton Sand Key draws a crowd of about 275 for a dinner benefiting the Ryan Wells Foundation, named for a Tarpon Springs High School culinary student who died ten years ago today in an auto crash. The "Evening with the Chefs" dinner features chefs from the Sheraton Sand Key, Tradewinds, Mystic Fish, Island Way Grill and other notable local restaurants, as well as culinary students from Tarpon Springs, Northeast and Osceola high schools and the Clearwater campus of the Pinellas Technical Education Center. 

Photo credit: Courtesy Ryan Wells Foundation
  14. Locale Market's Rajat Parr nabs second James Beard award

    Food & Dining

    Despite a dramatic uptick in notable new restaurants, the Tampa Bay area was once again shut out of what has come to be known as the Academy Awards of food. On Monday night at a ceremony presented by TV host, author and chef Alton Brown at Lyric Opera of Chicago, winners of the 2015 James Beard awards were announced. It was the first time the annual black-tie gala took place outside of New York City, something of an irony given the dominance of New York restaurants and chefs among this year's winners. The state of Florida was summarily shut out of the proceedings: Bern's Steak House, named a finalist in the Outstanding Wine Program category, lost out to A16 in San Francisco....

  15. This Mother's Day, present a perfect breakfast in bed

    Cooking

    When you broach the subject of breakfast in bed with just about anyone, folks are wont to sigh and get a little moony-eyed recalling the early-morning nourishment they've enjoyed while prone. It's a kindness as rare as hen's teeth.

    It can be cereal sloshing on a teetery tray, or just a mug of coffee and buttered toast — either way it sends a message of love. Our advice is to keep it classic but always include a dab of color (a bowl of fruit? a single fresh flower?) and prepare something savory and something sweet to gently wake up all of your loved one's senses. Just in time for Mother's Day, here are some strategies for expertly feeding someone still snuggled in the sheets....