Laura Reiley, Times Food Critic

Laura Reiley

Laura Reiley is the Tampa Bay Times' restaurant critic and a former critic for the San Francisco Chronicle and the Baltimore Sun. She is the author of four books in the Moon Handbook series: Florida Gulf Coast; Walt Disney World and Orlando; Tampa and St. Petersburg; and the Paradise Coast. She has cooked professionally and is a graduate of the California Culinary Academy.

Phone: (727) 892-2293

Email: lreiley@tampabay.com

Twitter: @LReiley

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  1. Joe Maddon helps give first taste of his much-anticipated Tampa restaurant

    Food & Dining

    TAMPA — Joe Maddon spent the day watching David Price get traded to the Detroit Tigers. Michael Stewart spent the day grouper fishing with the manager of the Milwaukee Brewers, at Maddon's suggestion. The former in a grape-colored polo shirt and black jeans, the latter just slightly wind-burned, the duo were serene hosts at something Tampa doesn't have much of: a one-night-only pop-up restaurant....

    Tampa Bay Rays manager and Ava partner Joe Maddon talks to other guests at the restaurant’s “pop-up” event Thursday at Buddy Brew Coffee in Tampa. Ava is scheduled to open in October.
  2. Review: At Sohkdii, go bold with spicy Laotian cuisine

    Food & Dining

    KENNETH CITY

    There are reasons there are so few Laotian restaurants in this area. Some of it is immigration patterns and demographics, and some of it is because Thai food has stolen its thunder a bit. The country just west of Laos has made a concerted effort to promote its cuisine to the world and has been largely successful in popularizing pad Thai, tom kha gai, massaman curry and such across a few continents. But it's a mistake to assume Laotian food is just the same....

    Thum mak hoong is Laotian green papaya salad, intense with fish sauce and lime, served at Sohkdii with cool wedges of green cabbage.
  3. Review: Castile at Hotel Zamora is a new culinary star in St. Pete Beach

    Food & Dining

    ST. PETE BEACH

    Restaurant chefs are often wanderers, staying in a kitchen a year or two before moving on. For this reason, reviewing restaurants gets tricky. You say glowing things about a restaurant and, poof, the chef is promptly off somewhere new. I've been watching Ted Dorsey for a while, but I took my eye off the prize seven months ago when he left Gordon Davis and Kevin Enderle's SoHo Hospitality group (Boca, Ciro's, CopperFish) to head to St. Pete Beach....

    Temptations at Castile, at the Hotel Zamora, include baked oysters served atop a Himalayan salt block, black grouper cheeks and yellowfin tuna poke. Ted Dorsey and Zach West think outside the standard beach-food box, especially with seafood and salads.
  4. Review: Guy Harvey RumFish Grill makes a big splash in St. Pete Beach

    Food & Dining

    ST. PETE BEACH — There are those stores that are like clubs. Bass Pro Shops, Ron Jon Surf Shops, even Apple stores — yes, they sell stuff, but it's more aspirational than that. These are lifestyles on offer.

    The new Guy Harvey store in St. Pete Beach is like that. Angler-explorer-artist Harvey is more ruggedly mysterious than the Dos Equis dude, his saltwater game fish art attracting gravelly voiced Hemingway types and those who wish they were. The new Guy Harvey Outpost seems perfectly paired with the TradeWinds Beach Resort, and its restaurant, the recently launched RumFish Grill & Bar, more perfect still. ...

    Pecan crusted mahi with pan-fried greens, a corn and okra succotash and tomato marmalade at RumFish Grill & Bar in St. Pete Beach.
  5. Local restaurants serve up sides of classes, paddleboarding, yoga

    Food & Dining

    you sit there, they bring you the food. Chew, swallow, pay, depart. Unless you're an exceptionally vigorous chewer, you're not breaking a sweat the whole evening. It's why most of us go out to eat: so we don't have to do the work. But when you think about it, it's a little passive. For you overachievers, what if I said there are restaurants out there where you can eat and learn to do something new, develop a skill, try out a fresh hobby? In a way, you could think about these restaurants as mini summer camps for grownups. But camp without the lanyardmaking or annoying color wars, and where the food is bound to be better....

    You can learn Italian and enjoy a meal with Roberto Alvarez.
  6. Visit Tallahassee for fine and funky food and lodging (and football)

    Florida

    TALLAHASSEE — Boiled p-nuts. Sometimes "boiled" is spelled wrong, too. There are stands that dot the back roads of the rural Florida Panhandle, fronted by hand-lettered signs that tout the glories of the green peanut. The outskirts of Tallahassee are P-nut Central, the stands' proprietors hunkered over burners at the back of rattletrap trucks in the hot sun. So you stop.

    The fresh green nuts are boiled in the shell for several hours, then a huge amount of salt is added to the water and the whole mess is boiled some more. The peanuts sit in the brine until a customer pulls up, when they are drained and sold to enthusiasts by the quart at the road's shoulder. Soft, salty and a little greasy, they are the perfect foil for cheap light beer. You eat them warm, right away, as you pull out from the p-nut stand, the shells forming a pesky pile in the front seat....

    The Downtown Marketplace runs Saturdays in Ponce de Leon Park and features produce, art and baked goods.
  7. Review: Farm-to-table food wows at Tampa Marriott's Waterside Grill

    Food & Dining

    TAMPA

    The Waterside Marriott closed its marquee restaurant, Il Terrazzo, in January. This moves its No. 2 restaurant, Waterside Grill, into the primary spot. The decor will underwhelm you, as will the service, but then the food comes and Kapow! you're shocked by how good it is. Longtime chef Rich Willerer is devoted to the farm-to-table idea, sourcing as much as he can locally and growing a whole lot more in a fairly elaborate rooftop garden. The restaurant will undergo a re-concepting this fall, but it seemed like a good time to go and check out what the Waterside has going on these days....

    Waterside Grill’s Fra Diavolo ($29) consists of Florida gulf shrimp, mussels, scallops, lemon basil pasta and spicy tomato. The kitchen team shows respect for the provenance of its products.
  8. Rococo among Tampa Bay restaurants honored by Wine Spectator

    Bars & Spirits

    ST. PETERSBURG — Rococo Steak's efforts paid off.

    On Wednesday, the Wine Spectator announced its much-coveted restaurant awards, honoring places around the globe with the best wine selections. This year, 3,748 restaurants from all 50 states and 80 other countries and territories were award winners — including St. Petersburg's youngest steak house which took the coveted the Best of Award....

     From left Josh Fan, Chris Prachar and Joe Orsino stand in the temperature controlled cellar of Rococo Steak. [LARA CERRI  |   Times]
  9. Plenty of new dining choices on the Pinellas beaches

    Food & Dining

    You drag the pool noodles back to your towel, futilely attempt to dislodge the sand from the thigh band of your swimsuit and wonder idly if SPF 50 is really any better than the 30. And then this happens: You realize a day at the beach has made you powerfully hungry. And thirsty, very thirsty. In Pinellas County, there is a whole new crop of beach bars, restaurants and cafes to consider. Here are the highlights:...

    Refreshers at Gypsy Souls Coffeehouse in Redington Shores include a Strawberry Smoothie and Ghirardelli Mocha Frappe.
  10. Despite 'sighting,' Anthony Bourdain tweets he was not in St. Pete

    Food & Dining

    ST. PETERSBURG — A celebrity sighting in a downtown coffeehouse on Tuesday was eventually debunked by the celebrity himself.

     

     ...

    FILE - In this July 30, 2009 file photo, Anthony Bourdain attends the premiere of "Julie & Julia" at The Ziegfeld Theatre, in New York. The Travel Channel is home to popular shows such as Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations," where the sharp-witted author and chef trots the globe in search of tasty local cuisine and color. (AP Photo/Peter Kramer, file)
  11. Bunga Raya is a great place to try authentic Malaysian

    Food & Dining

    PALM HARBOR

    You don't have to count chopsticks on McMullen-Booth Road to see it has serious density of Asian restaurants. From about Alderman Road down to Enterprise, there are enough pad Thai and dynamite rolls to throw a major party. One cuisine that has been heretofore lacking, though, is Malaysian. It's a shame because it's a humdinger, a cuisine that is at once spicy, homey, sweet, bright and sometimes a little kooky. Knock-your-socks-off shrimp paste, high notes of lemongrass and lime leaf, turmeric, ginger, smoldering curries, sweet-sour tamarind, and blistering little chiles — it's a swirl of heady flavors....

    Bunga Raya Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 4952 Ridgemoor Blvd., in Palm Harbor, is a rare spot for traditional Malaysian cuisine.
  12. St. Petersburg celebrity chef food festival won't happen this year

    Events

    With more than a dozen celebrity chefs, notable regional artists and some of Tampa Bay's own gastronomic stars, last year's food and arts festival was billed as the first annual, with organizers aiming to put the area on the culinary map with a destination event in the style of the Food Network's South Beach Wine & Food Festival and the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Colo.

    So what happened?...

    Chef Scott Conant does a seafood and pasta demonstration at the Mahaffey Theater during the  St. Pete & Bay Area Festival of Food, Wine & the Arts on Saturday,11/16/2013.
  13. Café Alma closes in downtown St. Petersburg, will reopen at John's Pass

    Food & Dining

    ST. PETERSBURG — Café Alma, one of downtown St. Petersburg's anchor restaurants for the past 12 years, will close on Sunday with a final brunch, reopening in mid July as the briefer "Alma" at 111 Boardwalk Place at John's Pass in Madeira Beach.

    The new beachside restaurant has been in the works for owners Scott and Thorn Vogel for some time, but the fate of the original location has just been decided....

    Café Alma, one of downtown St. Petersburg's anchor restaurants for the past 12 years, will close on Sunday with a final brunch, reopening in mid July as the briefer "Alma" at 111 Boardwalk Place at John's Pass in Madeira Beach. [Times (2005)]
  14. Review: Hometown St. Petersburg crowd has plenty to love at Harvey's

    Food & Dining

    ST. PETERSBURG

    In April, Harvey's on Fourth Street celebrated its 30th anniversary, something of a miracle in the restaurant world, especially if you consider its location, in an unglamorous strip mall north of bustling downtown. Seemed like a good time to sneak in and try to suss out its secret.

    Decor is a hint to what has given Harvey's legs. It's a flotsam and jetsam approach, with lots of time-mellowed wood and doodads assembled from historic St. Pete hotels like the Vinoy, Soreno and Albemarle. It's got the lived-in feeling of a favorite sweater that has gone a little wispy at the elbows. ...

    Sauteed sea scallops are served with mixed vegetables at Harvey’s Fourth Street Grill in St. Petersburg.
  15. Review: Hong Kong House offers affordable dim sum and more

    Food & Dining

    TAMPA

    On a lazy weekend day in New York or Los Angeles or Orlando, a lot of people get the same idea: dim sum, with cart after cart of delicious, intricately folded dumplings, rolling around the room. Diners point and little plates are whisked onto their tables until they have the dawning awareness of their own overambition. Straining a little at the seams, they all depart with one thought: nap time. ...

    Lisa Lee serves up dim sum at Hong Kong House in Tampa. On weekends, three dim sum carts make the rounds.