Published November 8

Tiffany had many designers over the years, and in fact some of the early pre-Tiffany and Company days utilized the talents of women who weren’t allowed to be credited. Scores of talented women designed windows and other art that ultimately was signed by Tiffany Studios, a precursor to today’s Tiffany.

Later, however, some women — like Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso — were given the credit they deserved.

Possibly Tiffany’s most famous designer was Jean Schlumberger, who was born in 1907 in France, landed in New York and enjoyed a long and storied career. His work is included in many museums around the country — including the prestigious Museum of Fine Arts in St. Petersburg.

Recently a piece crossed our desk that typifies our ongoing discussion of the many aspects of valuation. This green enamel bangle bracelet likely would only sell retail for around $5,000 to $7,000 in the 1960s, when it was made. But today, valuation could be calculated many different ways. We typically buy these for $8,000 to $10,000 and resell them for 15-20 percent more.

At 82 grams, the gold value of this piece is only $2,800, but this bracelet features the highly sought-after green enamel, which is very difficult to find. We were recently tasked to find one and searched the U.S. and all of our contacts. The best price was from another dealer who sold it to us for $14,500. Many of the retail sites are asking $20,000 to $25,000 or more.

Ultimately, our client declined to purchase and it is still available for sale. Remember that condition means everything — and any enamel loss would cut the cost in half. Sometimes these bracelets were not signed by Schlumberger, but this one is.