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Popular reversible scarf

If you like boutique shopping, you may have noticed a current hot seller is the reversible scarf, one side in velvet and one side in silk.

This scarf comes in two shapes, an oblong 15 inches by 71 inches or a triangle 48 inches by 60 inches. Since a scarf is never pieced, both of these scarves take a fair amount of fabric. From two yards of 48 inches wide velvet, you can make three scarves by cutting the 2-yard piece into three lengthwise strips 16 inches by 72 inches long. From 1 yards of velvet, two triangular scarves can be cut.

Use 48 inches as the lengthwise and crosswise grainline, the longer side of 60 inches as bias, so that the triangle will drape well over the shoulders. On the reverse side, silk crepe de chine, silk charmeuse, or silk georgette would be appropriate fabrics. Since fabric widths vary, buy enough silk for the reverse side of the scarf. No preshrinking of fabric is necessary for scarves.

Begin by cutting off the selvages from both the velvet and the silk. Selvages prevent the seams from relaxing, resulting in puckers.

Measure out scarf lengths and widths accurately. If cutting is inaccurate, you will have difficulty joining sides and there will be wrinkling in the scarf body. For oblong scarves, fabric width is divided in thirds, measuring out three long strips 16 inches wide and 72 inches long (1). For triangular scarves, fold fabric piece in half diagonally, then cut on the diagonal fold to get two triangular pieces (2).

While it might be tempting for both sides of the scarf to be in velvet, the results are too bulky. A lighter weight fabric such as silk is preferred for the reverse side. Cut scarf reverse fabric in the same dimensions as velvet.

Place the velvet piece on a flat surface, right side up. Then layer the reverse fabric onto the velvet, right sides together. Pin all sides. Pins are positioned on the silk side of the fabric, not the velvet side, to give more control at the sewing machine.

Start with a brand-new Schmetz needle, 70/10 H, and sew {-inche seams with an "even feed" or "walking" foot. Position scarf at the machine so that the wrong side of the velvet is against the feed-dog. The feed-dog will control the velvet and prevent stretching and slippage.

If your scarf is triangular, sew bias seam very carefully, pushing the bottom layer into the needle to prevent stretching. "Handwalk" machine, turning fly-wheel by hand, two stitches on all corners.

Leave a 4-inch opening somewhere on the scarf, preferably away from the corners. Do not press seams open with an iron, because seam imprints will result. Finger-press seams open and trim all seams to \ inches. Trim off corners on an angle to eliminate bulk (3).

Reach through opening and turn scarf right-side out. Use a point turner to push out the corners. Fold in raw edges \ inches at opening. Pin. Hand-stitch opening closed, spacing stitches \ inches apart, sliding thread along fabric fold between stitches (4).

Finger-press seams flat. If you don't mind a little extra handwork, blindstitch scarf around all edges [ inches from scarf edge. This will help flatten seams (5).

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