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I'VE HAD ENOUGH...

Waiter, waiter . . . Can I get a spoon? The fanciest restaurants set out the prettiest plates and whisk them away before you can eat off them, okay. But why put entrees on pools of wonderful sauces and give me only a knife and fork? This could get ugly.

_ CHRIS SHERMAN, Times Food Critic

Side dish

New in town

Work proceeds on a Sam Seltzer steak house for St. Petersburg. The newest location (4390 Tyrone Blvd.) should open in mid-November to offer a turkey alternative.

Sack time

Big play off-field by Tampa Bay Buc Chidi Ahanotu saved the Nibbler's favorite high-gloss sports bar/steakhouse/jazz club. It was a late-night Chidi fave too so he bought the place after it closed.

Now it's Sacks (5401 W Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 287-2257). No change to decor, chef, or George H. Ruth's autograph. Menu has more seafood and Cajun spice, but red meat (go for the 14-ounce strip) and red wine are rich. Kitchen's learning to swing again, judging by the sweet potatoes. No. 72 may be there; if not, his jersey and good taste in jazz will be.

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