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Second helping

The Brown Dog's settling happily into a new home and didn't lose its way in the move.

New location (3451 Fourth St. N, St. Petersburg; (727) 525-5830) is twice as big, bright with genteel new decor pleasing to the Northeast lunch crowd.

You can still bring your own wine, and the menu is as endless as the imagination of chef Dan Montgomery.

It's long on cheeses, curry spices and fresh fruit (in entrees as well as pastries) and draws from down home, Germany, Cuba and Thailand.

Pan-fried ruby trout and port cheese sauce makes a fine lunch, although a sherry sauce couldn't revive fish rouladen stuffed with seafood.

Lunch, from omelets to salmon in pastry, is $5.95 to $7.95. Dinners include duck, seafood, pork, chicken and beef and run $7.95 to $24.95.

I'll have another ...

Serving of game. Odder meats _ venison, ostrich, even elk and kangaroo _ are showing up on local menus. Some have a whiff of Nero frivolity,but ostrich is slowly moving mainstream as a low-fat alternative to beef. Not cheap, but it certainly doesn't taste like chicken. If you see game on the menu, give it a try.

- CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic

Correction

La Tour Eiffel in Belleair, listed last week as one of the area's few French spots, has closed.

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