Plate of bucatini. There's more to pasta than angelhair and bowties, and way beyond spaghetti and macaroni. But it's all easy to cook and easier to eat. Look for pappardelle, flat inch-wide noodles, to show up with hearty entrees and for bucatini, long tubes like hollow spaghetti, to be served with all kinds of sauces and Roman dishes.
_ CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic