Plum . . . As peaches disappear, season-savvy cooks turn to nectarines and, especially, to beautiful plums. During four days in Chicago as summer dwindled, I savored plums three ways: as a counterpoint to roast pork, a soul-warming three-plum cobbler and a briskly refreshing sorbet. That still leaves salads, soups and puddings. All can be plum good.
_ CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic