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I'LL HAVE ANOTHER . . .

Plum . . . As peaches disappear, season-savvy cooks turn to nectarines and, especially, to beautiful plums. During four days in Chicago as summer dwindled, I savored plums three ways: as a counterpoint to roast pork, a soul-warming three-plum cobbler and a briskly refreshing sorbet. That still leaves salads, soups and puddings. All can be plum good.

_ CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic

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