Lemon bar. There is a time to say no to chocolate and yes to lemon desserts. That time is summer. So, how about we spend the next three (or eight) months adding something lemony to the tiramisu-chocolate decadence lineup? A tart Italian ice or granita would be plenty, or a spot of lemon curd, but my dream would be a smart little square of lemon bar.
_ CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic