The Maysara Winery in McMinnville, Ore., helpfully notes on its 2011 Maysara "Roseena" Pinot Noir Rose that Roseena is an ancient Persian name for a beautiful woman who smells naturally of roses. What a nice name.
This coral-colored wine, available at big-box stores around Tampa Bay for about $16, is a true rose, which means you should not expect the vapid sweetness of a blush wine like so-called white zinfandel. A rose stands on its own and has a personality all its own, rather than being a denatured version of a red wine, in this case, pinot noir.
The first thing we noticed, after inhaling this dry wine's bouquet of strawberries with rose petal top notes, was its pronounced acidity, to which fruit is subjugated from first sip to last. The underplayed fruit is mostly strawberry with accents of lime, green pepper and cantaloupe, the whole adding up to a clean, crisp wine but with a sort of musky undertone. It is complex overall and chiseled. It will be too astringent for some low-key foods.
Try pairing it with citrus-marinated salmon or maybe an egg salad sammie with plenty of fresh dill.
By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.