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St. Pete’s Overflow, Atlanta’s Orpheus collaborate on sour ale

The result of the teamup is the tart Play Within A Play, a heavily fruited brew. | Local craft beer of the week

Interstate collaborations aren’t especially common, but every once in a while like minds cross state lines to create something worth a trip. See, for example, A Play Within A Play, the latest from Atlanta’s Orpheus Brewing and St. Petersburg’s very own Overflow Brewing Company.

For A Play Within A Play, the Overflow team traveled to Atlanta to create a large production batch of beer with the host brewery, aiming to have the finished product distributed in both the Atlanta and Tampa Bay markets. So while it’s not a local beer, per se, the local hand is quite present, and the beer is a near-exclusive to the Tampa Bay area.

A Play Within A Play is a heavily fruited sour ale, emphasis on the heavy. On appearances alone, you’d think your bartender poured a glass of mango purée as a rib. It’s dense and opaque, with a rich stone-fruit nose followed by a hint of black pepper.

The beer is fairly tart, but its acidity is well-tempered by hefty fruit additions of pineapple and apricot. The pineapple is mostly present in background notes, with a faint sweetness that appears after the initial acid burst. Apricot lends the more dominant fruit character, offering a fruity counterpoint to the spicy, light funk of Orpheus’ house sour yeast.

Orpheus has made a name for itself in recent years with a lineup of fantastic fruited sour ales, so it’s no surprise that it found synergy in Overflow, a brewery with more than a few ambitiously-flavored sour beers. The resulting product is a must-try for fans of the genre.

If that’s not enough, a portion of proceeds from sales of A Play Within A Play benefit CASA, a St. Petersburg-based organization that aids victims of domestic violence. Great beer, great cause. Check it out on draft at Overflow’s downtown St. Petersburg tasting room, or grab a four-pack of tallboys to go (while they last) for $16.

— Justin Grant

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