TAMPA — The Manteiga family will need to find a new restaurant from which to hold court.
Since the 1970s, the owners of La Gaceta Newspaper had a private circular table in the back corner of La Tropicana Cafe in Ybor City.
But after nearly six decades of slinging Cuban sandwiches, café con leche and other Ybor fare, La Tropicana Cafe at 1822 E. Seventh Ave. has closed.
Gio Peña, who has operated La Tropicana since 2016, said it could not survive the ongoing pandemic.
“I’d say 80 percent of my regular customers are older people,” Peña said. “They are afraid to come out.”
His other restaurant, Gio’s Cuban Cafe at 411 S. Macdill Ave., remains open.
“It is always hard to run two businesses,” he said. “It is even harder now. It was a tough decision.”
Peña said he is in discussions with restaurateurs interested in re-opening La Tropicana but cannot guarantee anything.
La Gaceta publisher Patrick Manteiga said he was heartbroken to lose a restaurant that has been a second office for his newspaper since his late-father Roland Manteiga had friend and then-owner Angel “BeBe” Menendez place that private table in the corner. It was the only circular table in the restaurant and, for decades, had its own working red phone.
“It is a piece of Ybor history gone forever," Manteiga said.
Frank Ippolito founded the La Tropicana in 1963 across the street from where it is today.
Menendez purchased the restaurant in 1965, moved it to the current location eight years later and installed a drive thru window.
“They had Ybor’s original drive thru that was the only one until McDonald’s and Burger King came,” La Tropicana regular and Ybor resident Fran Costantino said. “That was what made it so special. That was their claim to fame.”
That and their classic Ybor cuisine that also included black beans and rice and stuffed potatoes.
“I used to eat there every Friday with my friends Mary and Theresa Greco,” Costantino said. “We ordered their deviled crabs and café con leche every Friday for years.”
At first, the clientele was immigrants and first-generation Americans. Then, the children of those customers went on to college and became doctors, lawyers, businessmen and politicians, former owner Ray Cuttle once told the Tampa Bay Times. Even though they moved away from Ybor, he said, they kept coming back to La Tropicana, establishing the cafe’s roots as a melting pot of working classes.
Keep up with Tampa Bay’s top headlines
Subscribe to our free DayStarter newsletter
You’re all signed up!
Want more of our free, weekly newsletters in your inbox? Let’s get started.Explore all your options
For generations, La Tropicana was also a regular stop for politicians passing through the area.
President George W. Bush dined there, as did governors Lawton Chiles and Bob Martinez.
“I met President Jimmy Carter there,” said Tony Zappone, who then added with a laugh, “Carter had the worst handshake of anybody I have ever met. It was like shaking hands with toilet paper. But everybody ate there back then. It was famous."
Menendez’ son-in-law Cuttle took over around 1995 and operated the restaurant until 2016, when he sold the building to Ybor developers Jacob Buchman, Joe Capitano, Darryl Shaw and Ariel Quintela.
They then approached Peña about running the restaurant.
“It was a great opportunity,” Pena said. “We were doing good. Business was steady. And then came COVID.”
Manteiga said the La Tropicana deserved a better sendoff.
“It is very sad that it will go out with a whimper," he said, “as opposed to a roar.”
• • •
Tampa Bay Times coronavirus coverage
GET THE DAYSTARTER MORNING UPDATE: Sign up to receive the most up-to-date information.
SO YOU WANT TO LEAVE YOUR HOUSE? Read these 10 tips first
LOCAL RESTAURANTS: The updated database of Tampa Bay restaurants open for dine-in or takeout
UNEMPLOYMENT Q&A: We answer your questions about Florida unemployment benefits
LISTEN TO THE CORONAVIRUS PODCAST: New episodes every week, including interviews with experts and reporters
HAVE A TIP?: Send us confidential news tips
We’re working hard to bring you the latest news on the coronavirus in Florida. This effort takes a lot of resources to gather and update. If you haven’t already subscribed, please consider buying a print or digital subscription.