Wine of the Week: 2011 Chamisal Vineyards Stainless Chardonnay

We first encountered this week's wine at one of our favorite new restaurants, one where nice twists on classic American comfort foods — like deviled eggs dressed up with smoked trout and crisped capers — invite pairing with uncomplicated wines and craft beers. The 2011 Chamisal Vineyards Stainless Chardonnay, an unoaked chard from California's Central Coast, fills the bill admirably. Expect to pay about $15 at wine-savvy markets and wine shops.

Throughout, this is a delightfully fresh and vibrant white for the table or for poolside sipping. In the glass, it is a shimmery pale gold. On the nose, it offers up seductive white peach. On the tongue, it displays a harmonious blend of white peach, honeydew, ripe pear and just a touch of almond, fruit-forward but subtly so. It finishes long and clean with a hint of lime at the finale.

We would pair this lively white with unfussy summer fare like grilled pork tenderloin with grilled fresh peaches and a broccoli-cranberry slaw on the side.

By Colette and John Bancroft. She is the Times' book editor, and he is a freelance writer specializing in food, wine and travel.