TAMPA — In early January, a new business inside a tall brick building on a busy stretch of E. Seventh Avenue embarked on a quiet but impressive debut. Lara, a restaurant, apothecary bar and culinary bazaar, was the culmination of years of hard work and a lifelong dream for a tenured local chef. In the beginning, there were only drinks — but these weren’t just any drinks: Envelope-pushing cocktails with bright, bold flavors, housemade tinctures and syrups, and a robust non-alcoholic section quickly set the stage for what appeared poised to become Ybor City’s Next Big Thing. Then came the food. Chef and owner Suzanne Lara began slowly rolling out a dinner menu — dishes honed over the course of more than two decades spent working in kitchens, none of them her own. At her new restaurant, the 42-year-old chef finally has the space and freedom to run her own show. And many of us watching from the sidelines agree: It’s about time. Local chefs and diners know chef Lara well. She grew up in Tampa and started working in restaurants at the age of 18. After cutting her teeth as the longtime executive chef at Ella’s Americana Folk Art Cafe, she moved on to helm Cass Street Deli, and spent time working as a sous chef at the celebrated Seminole Heights restaurant Rooster & The Till. Inside the confines of what was formerly Stone Soup Company, an expansive dining room is outfitted with exposed brick walls, artwork and plenty of greenery. Up above the space lies the bazaar, a small store stocked with culinary- and beverage-inspired gadgets and gifts: ceramics, aprons, cookbooks and bartender’s tools. And in the very rear of the upstairs loft, a sliding bookcase gives way to a speakeasy bar, ready to host private parties, pop-ups and art shows. It’s an eclectic, wildly creative space fusing multiple concepts under one roof. It could come off as muddled — a space trying to fit in too much, too soon. Instead, Lara’s vision feels fresh and unique — and right at home in Ybor City. It’s easily the most exciting restaurant to open in Tampa Bay this year. Opening a business in Ybor isn’t exactly easy — one need only look at the nearby ill-fated Ten Rooms for proof that not everything works (the fine dining restaurant closed after just three months in business). But Lara feels like a space built specifically for, and in honor of, its surroundings, with a finger firmly on the neighborhood’s pulse — a love letter to Tampa from a chef who has witnessed the local culinary landscape’s evolution firsthand. The menu, divided into sections called “Pintxos” (a nod to the small snacks served in Spain and Basque country), “Hands please,” “Biggie,” and “Sweet,” reads like a modern mash-up of Tampa’s culinary melting pot, and a nod to Ybor City’s pioneering Spanish, Italian and Cuban immigrants. A creative cocktail program sets the stage: Drinks like the Strawberry Festival ($16) — a refreshing combination of gin, strawberry jam, Aperol, tangerine and basil — and the Uncle Terry ($15), a smoky, sultry mix of fat-washed bourbon, sweet vermouth, orange liqueur and tobacco bitters — occupy completely different sides of the spectrum but are both beautifully balanced and complex quaffs. I also loved the Oleo Martini ($14), a spin on a dirty martini whipped with olive oil and garnished with a smoked olive. The gildas ($9) — a play on the ubiquitous Basque pintxo — don’t so much resemble the original but they do exude a heavy dose of Tampa flair. Much larger than what you’d find on the streets of San Sebastian, the long wooden skewers arrive hosting a colorful medley of pickled peppadew and cachucha peppers, smoky green olives and marinated anchovies. Each bite packs a sweet, salty and briny punch — a creative twist on the Basque classic. Dishes take inspiration from several iconic Tampa dishes with Spanish and Cuban roots, rather than simply replicating them. A ham and cheese croquetta ($10) fuses what normally might be three to four croquettas into one golden-fried square, creamy and studded with diced ham, topped with a salsa verde and salsa rosada, and zingy with garlic, herbs and bright acidity. Lara takes the flavors emblematic of a Cuban picadillo and allows them to shine in a glorious spin on steak tartare ($16), where hunks of silky Providence Cattle Beef are swaddled in a golden raisin-studded mostarda punctuated by smoked olives and sofrito and spread across crispy planks of fried Cuban bread before getting a quick char (the dish is playfully called “Picadillo Char-Tar”). Much of the menu here feels designed for casual drinking and snacking, and there’s an emphasis, Lara said, on dishes that chefs would want to eat on a night off (or after a shift). The playfully named “Drug eggs” ($7) are inspired by a quick back-of-the-house snack for cooks, and a nod to Korean mayak eggs, where soft-poached eggs are marinated in a ginger and soy sauce cure and topped with a crunchy medley of Serrano peppers, fried shallots, garlic, scallions and sesame seeds. A beautiful chicken liver pate ($14) is piped in fat, silky squiggles on toasted slices of sesame bread sourced from Miami’s Sullivan Street Bakery and garnished with a tart and fruity guava gelee. Since launching the dinner menu, the restaurant has also rolled out a lunch service, where most of the same pintxos and handhelds are available. A great option is the Longanisa Hot Dogs ($10), two sweet and smoky pork sausages made in-house that get a nice char on the Binchotan (a Japanese charcoal grill). They’re served in buttery brioche buns with a banana ketchup, tangy yellow mustard and a bright and crunchy Filipino-inspired atchara. Also good, though significantly larger, is a play on a Cuban palomilla sandwich ($15), featuring a massive breaded and fried Providence Cattle Co. steak on La Segunda bread slathered with aioli and a shaved onion relish. It’s a tasty enough dish, but one that’s a little more difficult to eat, with the steak slipping in between and out of the bread on occasion. There are two showstopper dishes. The Oceanic Market Frito Misto ($25), inspired by trips Lara would take with her mother to the iconic Tampa grocer (now, Lara takes her own daughter), features a bouquet of tempura-battered, crispy-fried seafood and vegetables (perilla leaves, yams, eggplant and shishito peppers). It’s all served with an umami-packed jeow som, a Laotian spicy dipping sauce. And then there’s the Chicken and Chochoyotes ($20), a Mexican-inspired spin on chicken and dumplings that swaps in tender, cloudlike masa dumplings and pairs them with crispy-skinned braised chicken thighs swimming in a flavorful mole amarillo and thick strips of pickled nopales (cactus). Despite its humble approach, it’s an incredibly complex and delicious dish. Lara keeps rolling out more amenities every few weeks. Recently, that’s included additional drinks and dishes, including several desserts (I have my eye on a foie gras-topped French toast — $22 — with miso caramel and cinnamon popcorn). The restaurant recently added a “Kitchen Sink” tasting menu for $80 per person with an optional $35 drink pairing, which feels like a pretty solid deal. When I first heard about plans for Lara a couple of years ago, it was hard to picture what, exactly, a restaurant, apothecary-themed bar and chef’s bazaar would look like. What did that even mean? But I never doubted Lara’s prowess and ambitions. And as it turns out, the whimsical hybrid is exactly what Ybor needed. Where: 1919 E. Seventh Ave., Tampa. tampalara.com Hours: Lunch and dinner 12 p.m.-12 a.m. Thursday-Saturday, 12 p.m.-6 p.m. Sunday. Prices: ”Pintxos,“ $7-$16; “Hands Please,” $15-$25; “Biggie,” $16-$22. Don’t skip: Picadillo Char-Tar, Oceanic Market Frito Misto, Chicken and Chochoyotes. Details: Credit cards and cash accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Large non-alcoholic beverage selection. Some larger dishes not available at lunchtime.