Slim Charmer is St. Petersburg’s hottest new restaurant — here’s why

ST. PETERSBURG — When Wild Child opened on a developing stretch of Central Avenue in the summer of 2020, it was anyone’s guess how things would play out. How would a mostly outdoor restaurant sporting tropical vibes and a hard-to-pin-down Latin and Caribbean menu land in a city that was still figuring out its culinary identity while grappling with a pandemic? By now, we know the answer: Five years in, Wild Child is still one of the most popular dining destinations in Tampa Bay, a place where you can find one of the best, most exciting meals around. Now, the owners behind the ‘burg’s biggest hit have opened a new concept: Slim Charmer, a 26-seat cocktail bar and restaurant, which debuted in April on the same stretch of Central Avenue that, by now, has very much made its mark. And if the hour-long weekend waits and 90-minute limit placed on tables are any indication, the spot is off to an auspicious start.For their sophomore effort, owners Rob Reinsmith and Matt Kaye didn’t look far — opting to take over a historic 800-square-foot building abutting their flagship restaurant’s patio. Like its predecessor, the concept is ambitious and unique, managing to deftly tap in to exactly what diners — and drinkers — want right now. The elegant martini-forward cocktail program at Slim Charmer feels sleek and streamlined. Its petite dinner menu — just 13 dishes — is composed mostly of cold and raw selections, drawing inspiration from across Europe, including Spain, France, Italy and Portugal.Like the menu, the decor also feels world’s away from Wild Child’s bright and colorful vibes: The handsome, narrow dining room features dark booths and a few small tables, a slatted wood ceiling and terrazzo floors. The intimate, sultry vibes are further complemented by candlelight throughout the space, which includes a small bar area. Every now and then, the door opens and a thin triangle of sunlight creeps in, but an evening here is mostly spent engulfed in dark, moody lighting and the sweet blast of air conditioning. Sydney Knowlton oversees the excellent beverage program, composed of a long list of martinis, classic drinks, “tini” martinis, and low- and no-alcohol cocktails. All of the restaurant’s signature martinis are priced at $16, which, while not exactly cheap, feels competitive in the current market. And the short wine list, though less of a focus, is nonetheless carefully curated to feature small producers and natural options (Knowlton just opened the boutique wine store Neighborhood Wine Shop with her partner across the street). Helming the kitchen is chef de cuisine Scott Grimm, who spent several years cooking next door at Wild Child. An elegant undercurrent runs through this menu, from a selection of toasts and raw dishes to small plates and a rotating dry-aged steak. Most of the menu feels specifically designed to pair with a martini (or several). Take the crusty slices of focaccia, topped with creamy stracciatella cheese and a salty pop of caviar ($26). Dusted with Meyer lemon zest and pickled shallots, it’s the perfect start to a meal, especially when paired with the 50/50 martini ($16), a smooth combination of equal parts Nikka gin (or Grey Goose vodka), Dolin blanc vermouth and orange bitters.A dish of crispy potato chips takes a hint from Spain and arrives layered with a velvety black truffle-laced Parmesan foam, delivering a salty, savory, fatty kick that practically begs for a drink. It’s an exercise in decadence and the perfect accompaniment to the Freezer Door martini ($16), a potent quaff that riffs on the classic. It’s made with either Grey Goose vodka or Fords gin, vermouth and Fino sherry, and garnished with either olives, a lemon twist or an onion. An excellent clam-topped toast ($18) features briny little necks sourced from nearby Joe Island, in Palmetto, swathed in a garlicky sauce studded with pancetta, fennel and a luxurious lick of heat from Calabrian chile butter. The earthy roasted mushroom-topped toast ($16) gets a knob of Cambozola and smoked oyster mushroom cream and is finished with vin cotto — a tasty combination that could use a little more acid to balance out some of the richer elements. Close to half of the menu is dedicated to raw selections, ranging from shucked oysters (market price) to a steak tartare ($20) and several crudos, including the excellent crudo misto ($18), a classic rendition of the Sicilian dish featuring silky slices of yellowfin tuna, Faroe Island salmon and a punchy combination of capers, Castelvetrano olives, Calabrian chiles, lemon and a healthy glug of olive oil. A dish of Maine razor clams ($18) would feel at home in the Portuguese Algarve: The long, thin shells provide the infrastructure for the chilled clams, which are prepared just so that their delicate flavor shines, light and citrusy from a dash of yuzu, a little tarragon and pickled green tomatoes.Part of the restaurant’s unique approach includes changing the menu frequently. Though the first two months have provided the kitchen some time to get their footing, the plan going forward is to switch up most of the menu on a monthly basis. (A showstopper hamachi and strawberry dish on the opening menu is long gone but, if you can, get the clam toast while it lasts.) Some dishes won’t budge. The fan favorites that appear destined to stay include oysters (though the selection is always in flux), razor clams and the crudo misto. There will always be some kind of bright, composed salad. Recently, that’s included a brilliant roasted and raw carrot salad ($16) interspersed with fava beans and nibs of creamy, marinated sheep’s and goats milk feta, cured black olives for a pop of salt and fried shallots for crunch. A jumble of fresh mint, dill and a vinaigrette zingy with preserved lemon tie the whole thing together. There will always be one rotating sandwich. On a recent trip, a killer play on a New Orleans muffuletta stole the show, served on a chewy sesame-sprinkled roll from Miami’s Sullivan Street Bakery (the restaurant sources all its bread from there). Another rotating constant will be one larger dish: always a dry-aged steak, which recently featured a 30-day-aged New York strip. At $85, it’s by far the most expensive dish on the menu, but worth every penny: The thick, rosy planks of steak arrived perfectly seasoned under a cap of melted ramp butter and served alongside a half-head of sweet, soft roasted garlic and a peppery arugula salad tossed in a zippy Meyer lemon vinaigrette and a shower of Parmesan. One rotating dessert will always have a home on the menu, too. I was lucky enough to snag the salted caramel and milk chocolate torte ($9), the best dessert I’ve had in recent memory, accompanied by a cloud-like quenelle of whipped creme fraiche. The dish’s time appears to be limited, but let’s hope it makes a reappearance in the future. For the adventurous diner, there’s plenty of allure in Slim Charmer’s avant-garde, always-evolving approach. For those looking for consistent favorites, maybe not. (That’s OK, though: There’s plenty of consistency to be found next door.) Either way, get comfortable with the menu of martinis — there’s not much to move around there, and that’s a very good thing. Slim Charmer feels like a place where everyone — chefs, bartenders and diners — can let loose and have a little fun. And the fact that it’s already been met with wild success just two months in shouldn’t come as a surprise: We’ve seen this team do it before, after all. Where: 2706 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. instagram.com/slim_charmer Hours: Dinner Wednesday and Thursday 5-11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Prices: Most dishes $16-$26; dry-aged steak $85; dessert $9 Don’t skip: Razor clams, potato chips and speck, carrot salad. Details: 90-minute limit on seating; kitchen closes one hour before closing time.

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